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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.